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Occupation tests Bukavu’s century-long resilience

Bukavu’s clay-loam soils hug its lakeside cliffs and hills to create a city that is almost bewilderingly beautiful. A peninsula, the city juts into Lake Kivu in five sections that from a distance look like a green palm floating on the water.

From the lake, whether you arrive by boat, fast canoe or pirogue, the closer you get, the more the city’s Western-style art deco buildings come into focus.

Near the shores, colonial-era villas stretch out to touch the lake. The Hôtel Résidence boasts a century-old elevator. A night there costs as much as $175. It sits on another reminder of the country’s changing history – the Avenue PE Lumumba.
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