Surfing story &quot;Barbarian Days&quot; won the Pulitzer for Biography in 2016. Surfing!! . I enjoyed reading it way more than I enjoyed my one attempt to ride the waves. . <a rel="noreferrer nofollow noopener" href="https://www.theguardian.com/books/2015/aug/06/william-finnegan-new-yorker-surfing-memoir" target="_blank">https://www.theguardian.com/books/2015/aug/06/william-finnegan-new-yorker-surfing-memoir</a> (William Finnegan finds ‘brief, sharp glimpses of eternity’ on his surfboard. Photograph: Ron Dahlquist/Corbis)