1 reactions
I cut open a CRBN 2X and a Labs 006 to see what's inside that makes them different.
I've been pretty curious to see what's actually inside paddles. What makes some better or more expensive than others? Well, my friend offered to let me use his table saw. I was reluctant and grieved to do so, but I thought I'd offer a sacrifice of some paddles for science.
**Paddles that we analyzed today:**
$5 - Kanga Wood Paddle
$30 - Budget Paddle
$220 CRBN 2X 16mm
$333 - Labs 006
**What I learned about each paddle:**
$5 - Kanga Wood Paddle
* Made of plywood. Looks like standard home depot wood. Nothing really to say here. It's heavy.
$30 - Budget Paddle
* To be honest, I was pretty surprised how hard this paddle was, despite dissecting it. I thought I'd be able to snap it at the handle quite easily, but it was still very stiff.
* The handle was actually part of the same piece as the paddle face. I thought that meant it was unibody. This part I was a bit confused about since I know the higher end paddles claim "unibody".
$220 CRBN 2X 16mm
* This is where things got interesting... specifically between this paddle and the 006.
* Midway through cutting this paddle, we noticed insane splintering from the raw carbon fiber. Definitely should have worn gloves. The 006 splintered as well, but no where near as much as the CRBN. This seems to line up with the fact that most people would say the CRBN has more grit than the 006.
* The Polypropylene core of this paddle was rather soft. Compared to the 006, which is ROCK hard, this one has some flex to it.
* There was some sort of raw carbon fiber rod that ran through the handle. I didn't know that was a thing and I found that pretty interesting.
$333 - Labs 006
* Alright, the big boy. Currently the most expensive paddle on the market.
* The handle had a hard plastic piece that wrapped around the thermoformed handle.
* The Raw Carbon Fiber surface was STIFF. I'd say slightly heavy than a credit card. In the video, you can see it takes me substantial effort to snap. Versus the CRBN 2x surface, I was able to snap easily.
* The polypropylene core was also VERY stiff. I pressed my thumb into it and it didn't budge at all. Versus the CRBN 2X, I was able to smush down into the core with my thumb.
**My takeaway:**
First, addressing the price differences of each of these paddles. Wood paddles are just so dang heavy and they're simply made of plywood. $5 makes sense. The budget paddle was surprisingly sturdy. I full expected it to crumble away as soon as we cut it in half, but the material inside didn't seem too different than the expensive paddles. The only major thing that was different was handle construction, core thickness, and a lack of thermoform tech.
The difference between the CRBN 2x and the Labs 006 was interesting. Inside, they look quite similar in terms of material and construction, but the CRBN 2x was much softer and "spongier" than the Labs 006. I think this is actually what makes the CRBN 2x a more poppy paddle. My theory is: the more flexible the surface and spongy the core, the ball can springboard off the paddle for more power. Whereas the 006, is SUPER stiff, both core and raw carbon fiber surface. I can definitely be wrong in my theory, but it seems to be the consensus that the 006 has less "pop" than CRBN 2x.
\--
**For more visuals of the paddle cutting, I made a video of it:**
**https://youtu.be/wYnw-NK8Zbs** https://youtu.be/wYnw-NK8Zbs
amp;#x200B;
#sport
&
source
I've been pretty curious to see what's actually inside paddles. What makes some better or more expensive than others? Well, my friend offered to let me use his table saw. I was reluctant and grieved to do so, but I thought I'd offer a sacrifice of some paddles for science.
**Paddles that we analyzed today:**
$5 - Kanga Wood Paddle
$30 - Budget Paddle
$220 CRBN 2X 16mm
$333 - Labs 006
**What I learned about each paddle:**
$5 - Kanga Wood Paddle
* Made of plywood. Looks like standard home depot wood. Nothing really to say here. It's heavy.
$30 - Budget Paddle
* To be honest, I was pretty surprised how hard this paddle was, despite dissecting it. I thought I'd be able to snap it at the handle quite easily, but it was still very stiff.
* The handle was actually part of the same piece as the paddle face. I thought that meant it was unibody. This part I was a bit confused about since I know the higher end paddles claim "unibody".
$220 CRBN 2X 16mm
* This is where things got interesting... specifically between this paddle and the 006.
* Midway through cutting this paddle, we noticed insane splintering from the raw carbon fiber. Definitely should have worn gloves. The 006 splintered as well, but no where near as much as the CRBN. This seems to line up with the fact that most people would say the CRBN has more grit than the 006.
* The Polypropylene core of this paddle was rather soft. Compared to the 006, which is ROCK hard, this one has some flex to it.
* There was some sort of raw carbon fiber rod that ran through the handle. I didn't know that was a thing and I found that pretty interesting.
$333 - Labs 006
* Alright, the big boy. Currently the most expensive paddle on the market.
* The handle had a hard plastic piece that wrapped around the thermoformed handle.
* The Raw Carbon Fiber surface was STIFF. I'd say slightly heavy than a credit card. In the video, you can see it takes me substantial effort to snap. Versus the CRBN 2x surface, I was able to snap easily.
* The polypropylene core was also VERY stiff. I pressed my thumb into it and it didn't budge at all. Versus the CRBN 2X, I was able to smush down into the core with my thumb.
**My takeaway:**
First, addressing the price differences of each of these paddles. Wood paddles are just so dang heavy and they're simply made of plywood. $5 makes sense. The budget paddle was surprisingly sturdy. I full expected it to crumble away as soon as we cut it in half, but the material inside didn't seem too different than the expensive paddles. The only major thing that was different was handle construction, core thickness, and a lack of thermoform tech.
The difference between the CRBN 2x and the Labs 006 was interesting. Inside, they look quite similar in terms of material and construction, but the CRBN 2x was much softer and "spongier" than the Labs 006. I think this is actually what makes the CRBN 2x a more poppy paddle. My theory is: the more flexible the surface and spongy the core, the ball can springboard off the paddle for more power. Whereas the 006, is SUPER stiff, both core and raw carbon fiber surface. I can definitely be wrong in my theory, but it seems to be the consensus that the 006 has less "pop" than CRBN 2x.
\--
**For more visuals of the paddle cutting, I made a video of it:**
**https://youtu.be/wYnw-NK8Zbs** https://youtu.be/wYnw-NK8Zbs
amp;#x200B;
#sport
&
source
1
0 reactions
httQuasi 1 Terabyte di dati sanitari provenienti da AUSL Modena ora sul dark web ma per l'Azienda questa "non ha registrato ad oggi perdite di dati"
Pubblico questo post sperando di dare risalto a questa faccenda che purtroppo non trova spazio nei (tele)giornali, nonostante un data breach di questa natura porti a una compromissione della libertà di autodeterminazione dei patenti coinvolti.
La dinamica è del tutto sovrapponibile al data breach di ASL 1 Abruzzo, sia tecnicamente che nella risposta da parte delle Aziende: in poche parole un ransomware ha infettato i loro sistemi, criptato e rubato i dati.
Inizialmente la violazione è stata negata "non risultano compromissioni dei dati", dunque sono arrivate le minacce di ritorsioni legali nei confronti degli hacker e dei cittadini (security-by-ti-denuncio), fino a giungere all'epilogo, ieri, con l'ammissione condita da giochi di parole per far credere che i dati non siano stati rubati perché l'Azienda ne ha ancora una copia.
Nel peggiore dei casi non accadrà assolutamente nulla, nel migliore verrà comminata una sanzione dal GPDP, pagata dai contribuenti.
Fonti:
https://twitter.com/sonoclaudio/status/1735254258260292016
https://ransomfeed.it/index.php?page=post\_details&id\_post=123ps://ransomfeed.it/index.php?page=post_details&id_post=12315
https://www.ausl.mo.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/45097
amp;#x200B;
​
#local
& 15
Pubblico questo post sperando di dare risalto a questa faccenda che purtroppo non trova spazio nei (tele)giornali, nonostante un data breach di questa natura porti a una compromissione della libertà di autodeterminazione dei patenti coinvolti.
La dinamica è del tutto sovrapponibile al data breach di ASL 1 Abruzzo, sia tecnicamente che nella risposta da parte delle Aziende: in poche parole un ransomware ha infettato i loro sistemi, criptato e rubato i dati.
Inizialmente la violazione è stata negata "non risultano compromissioni dei dati", dunque sono arrivate le minacce di ritorsioni legali nei confronti degli hacker e dei cittadini (security-by-ti-denuncio), fino a giungere all'epilogo, ieri, con l'ammissione condita da giochi di parole per far credere che i dati non siano stati rubati perché l'Azienda ne ha ancora una copia.
Nel peggiore dei casi non accadrà assolutamente nulla, nel migliore verrà comminata una sanzione dal GPDP, pagata dai contribuenti.
Fonti:
https://twitter.com/sonoclaudio/status/1735254258260292016
https://ransomfeed.it/index.php?page=post\_details&id\_post=123ps://ransomfeed.it/index.php?page=post_details&id_post=12315
https://www.ausl.mo.it/flex/cm/pages/ServeBLOB.php/L/IT/IDPagina/45097
amp;#x200B;
​
#local
& 15
0 reactions
Can I braze a starter motor brush?
I was thinking maybe I could braze this starter brush on as a more robust solution than soldering. Is that possible? Or is there a better option?
I never brazed before, but I was thinking of using brazing flux with 10 gauge solid copper wire for rod as opposed to the other option of ordering 15% silver phosphorus copper.
I know I'd need a heat sink to protect the braid but I don't know what to use.
Then there's the question of how to hold the brush when trying to join it. I guess I can find an extra set of hands if needed. By the way, the brush plate comes out a little but it's tethered to the housing.
I will look for a shop that has a spot welder, but I don't think many places would have one near me.
​
https://preview.redd.it/q2n7rdpww55c1.jpg?width=6000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b88090deb416882eefe782af0ed15a15aca3f3ae
amp;#x200B;
https://preview.redd.it/oz9droubx55c1.jpg?width=6000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d85381341a81861e56b35fdaca087259e82ddf0e
#industry
&
I was thinking maybe I could braze this starter brush on as a more robust solution than soldering. Is that possible? Or is there a better option?
I never brazed before, but I was thinking of using brazing flux with 10 gauge solid copper wire for rod as opposed to the other option of ordering 15% silver phosphorus copper.
I know I'd need a heat sink to protect the braid but I don't know what to use.
Then there's the question of how to hold the brush when trying to join it. I guess I can find an extra set of hands if needed. By the way, the brush plate comes out a little but it's tethered to the housing.
I will look for a shop that has a spot welder, but I don't think many places would have one near me.
​
https://preview.redd.it/q2n7rdpww55c1.jpg?width=6000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b88090deb416882eefe782af0ed15a15aca3f3ae
amp;#x200B;
https://preview.redd.it/oz9droubx55c1.jpg?width=6000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d85381341a81861e56b35fdaca087259e82ddf0e
#industry
&